From the modeler…

Here’s how I made the MG 1/100 MS-II 2.0 06J ZAKU Battle Damage ver.LOW. The ZAKU II I used is a Bandai brand. How do I make it like that? The technique I use is really simple. Let me explain.

For battle damage armor: chest armor, shoulder armor, shoulder shield, head and small details.


I heat up my unused hobby knife blade until it’s hot enough to melt the plastic. I start to make heavy damage on those armors by slicing lightly my heated hobby knife blade on the plastic to simulate a melted armor hit by beam saber. You can see it on the head, tip of the nose, shield, chest armor and left spiky shoulder armor.

For the details on the shield, I just heat up again my hobby knife blade, and rake it from inside to outside to simulate beam saber small particle burst that melt the armor. Same technique on the left shoulder armor.


See that the hole on the left side of the chest armor, left thigh armor, left shin and right shin armor? Those are bullet holes. To make it, I use 0.3mm drill bits. After that, made some detail on bullet hole. This time I used a needle, any kind of needle will do. Heat the needle and do the same technique I used on detailing the shield and spike armor. If you look closely, there are small holes on the right front skirt armor, too. It’s easy to make. Just heat the needle and puncture it lightly until the plastic melted.


It’s the easiest things to do. I just cut it, shear the tip on both side of internal PC so that hold the pipe from falling. That’s it.


There are some armors that were ripped (Right Thigh, Right Hip Armor). The idea is caused by a small ground bazooka blow. To make it, I use pliers to rip it. But I left some small parts hanging to simulate ripped metal. The same technique for the lower back right thigh armor. But this time I totally rip it off. See that nice natural mark on ripped armor? I love it…


Again, I used the same method to make a small detail on those damage armors (the shoe, knee cap armor and other parts). Heat the blades and needle, make a light touch to the plastic. Easy.




Nothing was changed with the inner frame. I just build it as it is. It’s only painted with a custom mixed gun metal paint. I use TAMIYA black gloss (extract from spray can) mixed with Gaia EX-Silver. The ratio is – Black Gloss (90%) + EX-Silver (10%).

After that, I use reversed washing technique using black oil base paint to simulate the worn metal. I mixed the oil base paint with zippo lighter fluids so I can use air brush to spray thin layer of the paint on all parts of the inner frame.

It did not take too long for the paint to dry since I use zippo lighter fluid as replacement for oil base thinner. After the paint dries, I used tissue to clean up the remaining paint. The paint will stick even I use lighter fluids. The remaining paint will stays on every panel lines and other details on the inner frame.


Again, I use custom mixed paint:

A. For the light green color: TAMIYA Green (extracted from SC) 70% + Gaia Orange (20%) + Gaia White (10%)

B. For the dark green color: same as above, but I replace Gaia White paint with Tamiya black gloss.

Here is my method and Step by step on painting:

1. I start priming all of the armor parts using TAMIYA Grey fine surfacer primer.

2. For base color, I paint it all in Black gloss. The funny thing about why I paint it all parts using black gloss… I’m too lazy to make shadings….hahahahahaa.

3. After that, I start painting using air brush, starts from the middle of the armor to outside of the parts so it will cause highlight on every parts….that is my method on making shading. Some of modeler uses this technique as Pre-Shading.

4. Done, and let it dry.

5. After the paint dry, put all the armor to inner frame and snap fit.



1. I used Tamiya black smoke paint (extract from SC and using AB to spray) on every damage parts to simulate the’ burned effect’.

2. When done, time to do the worn effect on the armor using Dry Brush technique.

a. Dip an unused painting brush to silver Lacquer paint, not too much. But make sure it holds enough silver paint. If there’s too many paint on the brush, just use tissue to dry it a bit.

b. Start brushing. Use your imagination where the worn effect will appear. Just a personal thought, you can’t avoid a robot from impact or falling. Usually the most worn effect will appear on: CHEST, HAND, KNEE, FOOT, REAR, BACK, ELBOW, and SHIELD.

3. When done with that, continue to add more detail on battle damage rip-off armor. Just add silver paint to ripped armor to make the armor more realistic. It’s metal, not plastic….XD.

4. Mud and Rusty parts I use enamel paint. Apply it using brush.

For Mud: Brown enamel + Black enamel

For Rust: Brown enamel + White enamel

5. I Add more detail using gunmetal weathering master on some of the parts too.


When done with everything, apply a clear flat topcoat to seal all painting job. Done.


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